The Campaign That Proved Vintage Never Dies
In April 2017, a 24-year-old French entrepreneur named Etienne Malec did something the watch industry considered reckless. With no manufacturing facility, no retail network, and no heritage brand backing him, he launched a Kickstarter campaign for two watch designs that looked like they belonged in a 1940s time capsule. The goal was €65,000—enough to fund a small production run of what he called “neo-vintage” timepieces with step cases, hesalite crystals, and manual-wind movements.
The campaign raised over €500,000. Backers from 40 countries pre-ordered 1,200 watches. And in doing so, they didn’t just fund a microbrand—they ignited a movement that would redefine what “affordable luxury” could mean in the 21st century.
That brand was Baltic Watches.
Seven years later, Baltic Watches has showrooms in Paris, London, and New York. It’s produced more than 30,000 watches. It’s gatecrashed the prestigious Only Watch charity auction. And it’s done it all by stubbornly refusing to play by the rules of modern watchmaking.
This is the story of how a father’s journal, a son’s obsession, and a commitment to transparency created France’s most successful independent watch brand.
Baltic Watches Founder: Etienne Malec and His Father’s Legacy
Baltic Watches founder Etienne Malec didn’t grow up dreaming of founding a watch company. He grew up surrounded by one.
Etienne Malec’s father was a passionate watch collector who spent years building a collection of exceptional timepieces—some vintage, some modern, all meticulously documented. What made his father unusual wasn’t just the collecting; it was the journal. For years, he chronicled every acquisition: where he found it, what he paid, its history, its significance. When Etienne Malec’sfather passed away prematurely, he left behind not just a suitcase containing a hundred watches, but a written record of his passion.
“I discovered a suitcase containing a hundred watches as well as a journal detailing each piece of my father’s collection,” Etienne Malec recalled. “This discovery awakened in me a deep interest in mechanical watches and encouraged me to create my own brand.”
The name “Baltic Watches” itself pays homage to his father’s Polish origins, evoking the Baltic Sea near where his family grew up. It’s a name that sounds vaguely Scandinavian, which confused some early reviewers who assumed the brand wasn’t French. But for Etienne Malec, it was personal—a way to keep his father’s memory alive in every timepiece.
Before Baltic Watches, Etienne Malec had started another company, but he set it aside completely when the watch project took over. In 2015, at age 22, Etienne Malec began sharing his ambition with collectors in Parisian cafés and online forums. He scheduled 250 appointments in the first few months of 2017, showing prototypes to anyone who would look. He even traveled to New York to present to Hodinkee. This wasn’t just marketing; it was market research, community building, and passion project all in one.
Baltic Watches Kickstarter Gamble: €500,000 and a Community
On April 7, 2017, Baltic Watches officially launched on Kickstarter with two models:
- Baltic Watches HMS 001 – a three-hand automatic (hours, minutes, seconds)
- Baltic Watches Bicompax 001 – a two-register manual-wind chronograph
Both featured 38mm stainless steel cases with step-case design, high-domed hesalite crystals, and vintage-inspired dials. The Baltic Watches HMS used a Miyota 821A automatic movement; the Baltic Watches Bicompax used a Seagull ST-1901 manual chronograph. Straps were handmade in France from Italian Nappa leather. The presentation box was made from cork—an organic, natural material that represented the Baltic Watches ethos.
Early bird pricing was €239 for the HMS and €399 for the Bicompax. The goal was €65,000. Within weeks, backers had pledged over €500,000.
What made this remarkable wasn’t just the money—it was the trust. Hundreds of people put their money in the hands of a 24-year-old with no track record, based purely on design and transparency. As Etienne Malec later said, “The project only became ‘serious’ at the moment when hundreds of people put their money in my hands to produce the watches I had been talking about.”
The Baltic Watches delivered. And more importantly, they delivered exactly what was promised: vintage aesthetics, modern reliability, honest pricing.
Baltic Watches Manufacturing Philosophy: Global Sourcing, French Soul
From the beginning, Baltic Watches made a controversial decision: transparency about sourcing.
While most brands obscure their supply chains, Baltic Watches openly states that cases and movements come from Hong Kong and China, straps are made in France from Italian leather, and assembly happens in Besançon, France—the historic heart of French watchmaking.
This isn’t a cost-cutting measure; it’s a philosophical commitment. As the Baltic Watches brand states: “We want to be transparent about our production, and avoid contributing to the ambiguity that has been the bane of the horology industry for over 20 years.”
Every component is manufactured to Baltic Watches specifications, then sent to their atelier in Besançon for assembly, regulation, and quality control. Movements are regulated in-house to ensure accuracy beyond factory standards. The result is a watch that feels French in its finishing and attention to detail, while remaining accessible in price.
This approach has drawn criticism from purists who equate “Swiss Made” with quality. But Baltic Watches success proves that honest global sourcing beats misleading marketing. When you buy a Baltic Watches, you know exactly what you’re getting—and what you’re paying for.
Baltic Watches Design Language: Neo-Vintage Done Right
Baltic Watches aesthetic is instantly recognizable: step cases, hesalite crystals, sandwich dials, and vintage proportions. But it’s not replication—it’s revisionism.
Baltic Watches Key Design Elements:
Step Cases: The 38mm cases feature a stepped bezel that evokes 1940s dress watches, but with modern water resistance (200m for the Aquascaphe).
Hesalite Crystals: While most brands use sapphire, Baltic Watches uses high-domed hesalite (acrylic) for its warmth, shatter resistance, and vintage feel. It’s a deliberate choice that sacrifices scratch resistance for authenticity.
Sandwich Dials: The Baltic Watches Aquascaphe uses a multi-layer dial where luminous material sits in recessed indices, creating depth and vintage patina.
Proportions: Baltic Watches cases are typically 36-39mm, lug-to-lug under 47mm, and thickness under 12mm—dimensions that mirror mid-century watches while fitting modern wrists.
Gilt Accents: Many Baltic Watches models feature gold-colored printing that evokes vintage gilt dials, adding warmth and character.
This isn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. It’s neo-vintage—vintage aesthetics executed with modern quality control and reliability.
Baltic Watches Collections: From HMS to Prismic
Since 2017, Baltic Watches has released numerous collections, each refining the neo-vintage formula:
Baltic Watches HMS & Bicompax (2017)
The originals that started it all. The Baltic Watches HMS remains a elegant three-hander; the Baltic Watches Bicompax offers a two-register chronograph with manual-wind charm. Both remain in the catalog with updated movements.
Baltic Watches Aquascaphe (2018)
The Baltic Watches brand’s first diver, inspired by 1960s “skin divers.” Features 200m water resistance, sapphire bezel insert, and Miyota 9039 automatic. Available in multiple dial colors (Blue Gilt, Black Cream, Black Silver, Green, Bronze, Titanium) and now in titanium.
Baltic Watches MR01 (2022)
A Baltic Watches dress watch with a micro-rotor movement (Hangzhou 5000A), Breguet numerals, and a 36mm case. It proved that micro-rotors could be accessible, not just luxury territory.
Baltic Watches Prismic (2024)
A Baltic Watches dual-metal case (steel and Grade 5 titanium) with a manually-wind Peseux 701 movement, inspired by 1960s technical watches. Shows Baltic Watches willingness to experiment while staying vintage-rooted.
Baltic Watches Hermétique (2023)
A Baltic Watches field watch with a box-domed sapphire crystal and screw-down crown, offering 200m water resistance in a refined package.
Each Baltic Watches collection maintains design coherence while exploring different facets of vintage watchmaking.
What Makes Baltic Watches Unique and Famous
Several factors explain Baltic Watches meteoric rise:
1. Baltic Watches Transparency as a Principle
Baltic Watches openly shares where components come from, how much they cost, and how they’re assembled. In an industry built on mystery, this honesty is revolutionary.
2. Baltic Watches Design Consistency
Every Baltic Watches watch looks like it belongs to the same family. The step case, hesalite crystal, and vintage proportions create instant recognition—a rarity for a microbrand.
3. Baltic Watches Accessible Pricing
With most Baltic Watches models between €400-€800, Baltic Watches occupies the sweet spot: affordable enough for first-time buyers, quality enough for seasoned collectors.
4. Baltic Watches Kickstarter DNA
The Baltic Watches brand was born on Kickstarter, not just funded there. This community-first approach created a loyal customer base that feels invested in Baltic Watches success.
5. Baltic Watches Vintage Execution, Modern Reliability
Baltic Watches delivers the look and feel of a 1940s watch with the accuracy and durability of modern Miyota or Peseux movements, regulated in-house.
6. Baltic Watches Showroom Strategy
Unlike most microbrands that stay online-only, Baltic Watches opened physical showrooms in Paris, London, and New York—proving they’re serious about long-term brand building.
Baltic Watches Recognition and Growth: From Kickstarter to Only Watch
Baltic Watches success isn’t just measured in sales. It’s measured in industry recognition:
- Only Watch 2021: Baltic Watches became one of the few microbrands ever invited to donate a watch to the prestigious charity auction, alongside Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, and Audemars Piguet.
- Media Coverage: Regular features in Hodinkee, Monochrome, Fratello, and Time+Tide have cemented Baltic Watches reputation as the microbrand that “made it.”
- Collector Loyalty: The Baltic Watches transparent production and consistent design have created a community that buys, keeps, and wears their watches—not flips them.
As Etienne Malec told the New York Times: “We have many young customers coming to us for their first stylish watches. They are not interested in following the conventional route.”
Baltic Watches Future: Beyond Microbrand
As Baltic Watches approaches its 10th anniversary, the question is: what’s next?
Etienne Malec has been clear about his ambitions for Baltic Watches:
- No massive scaling – production will increase modestly, but quality and design consistency remain paramount
- More complications – the MR01 micro-rotor was just the beginning; perpetual calendars and other complications are likely
- More materials – titanium, bronze, and precious metals will expand the material palette
- Global retail – physical showrooms will complement direct-to-consumer sales, but never replace them
The goal for Baltic Watches isn’t to become the next Rolex. It’s to prove that a brand can grow while staying true to its founding principles: transparent production, vintage-inspired design, and accessible pricing.
Conclusion: The Journal That Started It All
The story of Baltic Watches isn’t just about a successful Kickstarter campaign or a clever marketing strategy. It’s about a son who turned his father’s passion into a living legacy.
When Etienne Malec reads his father’s journal today, he isn’t just reminiscing—he’s building on it. Every watch Baltic Watches produces is a new entry in that journal, a new chapter in a story that began with a collector’s obsession and continues through a community of enthusiasts worldwide.
In an industry obsessed with heritage, Baltic Watches created its own. In an industry built on secrecy, Baltic Watches chose transparency. In an industry that gatekeeps luxury, Baltic Watchesmade it accessible.
The result is more than a watch brand. It’s a proof of concept that in the 21st century, the most powerful marketing isn’t a multi-million dollar campaign—it’s honesty, design integrity, and a story worth telling.
Baltic Watches didn’t just revive vintage watchmaking. Baltic Watches redefined what a modern vintage brand could be.
