Watch Industry News: Latest Headlines & Summaries
. KURONO TOKYO LAUNCHES FIRST METEORITE DIAL WATCH
:Kurono Tokyo Introduces 37mm Inseki with Hand-Picked Muonionalusta Meteorite Dial
Hajime Asaoka’s accessible brand releases its first meteorite-dial timepiece with every disc personally curated by the watchmaker himself. The 37mm Inseki features a Muonionalusta meteorite dial, Calligra numerals, and Miyota 90S5 movement in a limited release (one per customer) launching January 15, 2026, at $1,850 USD with expected deliveries from late February.
2. GRANDEUR DEBUTS WORLD-FIRST JUMP FLAP HOUR COMPLICATION
Grandeur Monocle Features Patented Jump Flap Hour Display—A World-First Complication
French microbrand Grandeur unveils a revolutionary patented complication where a rotating meteorite disc and “monocle hand” create instantaneous hour changes at the end of each hour, combining familiar watchmaking language with completely novel mechanics. The 42mm titanium Monocle incorporates meteorite micro-rotor and hour disc in four colorways, priced at £2,418, limited to 100 pieces (dark variants) and 35 pieces (gold).
3. OLTO-8 CHRONO GATE REDEFINES 24-HOUR TIME DISPLAY
OLTO-8 Chrono Gate Brings Vintage Cockpit Heritage to Modern Watchmaking with Mechanical Time Key
The Chrono Gate reimagines the aviator’s 24-hour dial through a proprietary “Time Key” mechanism—a heritage-inspired cipher shifting between 12 and 24-hour modes. Features a skeletonized movement with 210 precision parts at 0.005mm tolerances, available in stainless steel and limited-edition titanium colorways, with hands that form the brand’s “8” emblem when aligned at 12:00.
4. BND FRENCH MICROBRAND UPGRADES VINTAGE DIVER COLLECTION
BND MN Series Enhanced with 300m Water Resistance and New Colorways
The French independent watchmaker upgrades its vintage-style diver with improved specifications: water resistance increased from 100m to 300m, period-accurate plexiglass crystal retained, and new dial colorways introduced (grey, white, khaki) with tropic rubber strap. The update exemplifies how microbrands enhance established designs through iterative improvements.
5. URBAN JÜRGENSEN REBORN: LEGENDARY DANE-SWISS BRAND RETURNS
Urban Jürgensen Revived by Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield—Historic Brand’s Comeback Story
The historic Danish-Swiss watchmaker Urban Jürgensen launches its reincarnation under watchmaking legend Kari Voutilainen and investor Alex Rosenfield, releasing three exceptional timepieces including the UJ-1 Tourbillon with remontoir—inspired by an archived Oval pocket watch but executed as modern haute horlogerie. The relaunch represents a watershed moment for independent watchmaking, combining heritage reverence with contemporary strategic vision.
6. DUNSELMAN: DUTCH WATCHMAKER’S DEBUT WITH HAND-CRAFTED BLACK TULIP
Dunselman Introduces Black Tulip—Dutch Independent’s Hand-Crafted Movement Entry
Annelinde Dunselman, a Dutch watchmaker with background experience at Jaeger-LeCoultre and Grönefeld, debuts her eponymous brand with the Black Tulip—a hand-crafted movement timepiece combining aesthetic refinement with niche complications. Limited to just 10 pieces, the launch signals renewed momentum in ultra-boutique watchmaking.
7. BEHRENS COLLABORATES WITH VIANNEY HALTER—CHINESE BRAND GOES GLOBAL
Behrens Elevates to Icon Status Through Vianney Halter Collaboration
The Chinese microbrand Behrens breaks through the “budget watchmaker” perception through partnership with legendary independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, signaling that a niche disruptor from Asia can now collaborate with horology’s celebrated inventors. The collaboration repositions Behrens as a serious independent capable of haute horlogerie-level innovation.
8. KUDOKE K5: UNIQUE 24-HOUR DIAL WINS COLLECTOR HEARTS
Kudoke K5 Features Entire Dial Filled with Oversized 24-Hour Indicator
Japanese microbrand Kudoke releases its innovative K5, transforming the day/night dome from its earlier K2 model into a full-dial 24-hour display creating a pseudo-one-handed watch design. The release follows the brand’s second GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award, establishing Kudoke as an innovation leader.
9. BEDA’A: GULF-BASED NEWCOMER BRINGS CULTURAL IDENTITY TO HOROLOGY
Beda’a Emerges as Gulf Region’s Answer to European Independent Watchmaking
The newly launched Beda’a brand, based in the Gulf region, emphasizes mechanical artistry while celebrating regional cultural identity—offering collectors an alternative to Europe-centric watchmaking narratives. The brand’s appearance at Dubai Watch Week signals a geographic shift in independent horology’s center of gravity.
10. WATCHES AND WONDERS GENEVA 2026: 66 BRANDS, 11 NEW ENTRIES, APRIL 14-20
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 Confirms 66 Exhibiting Brands; Audemars Piguet Returns as Major Highlight
The world’s premier watch salon announces record-breaking lineup including prestigious return of Audemars Piguet and 10 other new names (Behrens, Sinn, Corum, Credor, among others). The April 14-20 event introduces “The LAB” dedicated to cutting-edge watchmaking innovations, expanding professional days (April 14-17) and public access (April 18-20) with city-wide cultural programming.
11. MAEN GRAND TONNEAU JUMP HOUR: AFFORDABLE HAUTE HORLOGERIE COMPLICATION
Maen’s Grand Tonneau Jump Hour Collaboration Brings Rare Complication Below $2,000
The Hong Kong-based microbrand Maen partners with watch expert Nico Leonard to deliver an in-house modified automatic jump hour movement priced below traditional haute horlogerie thresholds. The 34mm case maintains a sub-10mm profile with custom integrated rubber strap, representing exceptional value for this rare mechanical complication.
12. DUBAI WATCH WEEK 2025 FINALE: 90+ BRANDS AT EXPANDED VENUE
Dubai Watch Week Expands to 200,000 Square Feet with 90+ Brands—Micro Watchmakers Get Global Platform
The largest independently organized watch exhibition concludes its 2025 edition (November 19-23) at Dubai Mall, Burj Park, featuring unprecedented venue expansion and record brand participation including significant representation of micro and independent makers alongside luxury giants—a true level playing field for emerging watchmakers.
13. LVMH WATCH WEEK JANUARY 2026: LUXURY CONGLOMERATE SHOWCASES INNOVATION
LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan Features TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, Bvlgari Innovations
The luxury sector’s most powerful conglomerate assembled its watch division (January 19-21, Milan) emphasizing heritage, innovation, and technological advancement. Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Chronograph showcased the El Primero 3600 calibre with 60-hour power reserve, exemplifying LVMH’s commitment to in-house movement development.
14. SEIKO 145TH ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION: HERITAGE MEETS CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Seiko Celebrates 145 Years with Four Limited Anniversary Watches Across Collections
Japanese giant Seiko marks its milestone with releases including Presage Classic Series SPB537 (enamel dial), King Seiko reference SJE121, and Astron SSH186—balancing heritage respect with contemporary specifications. The limited releases signal 2026 will feature substantial anniversary collections across the industry.
15. GRAND SEIKO ULTRA FINE ACCURACY: SPRING DRIVE ACHIEVES ±20 SECONDS/YEAR
Grand Seiko Ultra Fine Accuracy Spring Drive Achieves Mind-Boggling ±20 Seconds Per Year
Grand Seiko introduces the revolutionary Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (9RA5 and 9RA2 derivatives), achieving accuracy to ±20 seconds annually through compact single-barrel configuration and three-day power reserve. The technical achievement represents a watershed moment in quartz-competing mechanical precision.
16. INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS 2025 RECAP: FEWER RELEASES, HIGHER QUALITY STANDARD
Independent Watchmaking Shows Quality-Over-Quantity Trend; Best Releases Earn GPHG Recognition
2025 presented relatively few truly new independent releases but with exceptional quality. Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch, Petermann Bédat, and Raúl Pagès demonstrated time-only format innovations remain viable at haute horlogerie level, while Konstantin Chaykin’s perpetual calendar debut marked a first for Russian independent watchmaking.
17. MICROBRAND MOMENTUM: ACCESSIBLE BRANDS CAPTURE COLLECTOR ATTENTION
Microbrand Watches Offer Patented Complications, Innovative Materials at $300-$3,000 Price Points
2026 trends confirm microbrands dominating innovation-to-price ratio conversations. Patented complications (jump flap hour, time-key mechanisms), meteorite materials, and geographic diversity position smaller makers as primary innovation drivers, fundamentally reshaping collector value perception and disrupting heritage-brand dominance narratives.
Last Updated: January 21, 2026